Beads and Lead

The myth says that you need beads and tons of lead to get flies down to where fish are. I believe this myth began because, during periods when there is no hatch, fish tend to lie near the bottom and conserve energy. The lead or bead built into a fly does make it more convenient to get down to the fish.

In my view, there are at least a few problems with the above analysis. First, wherever there is a hatch, fish are eating rising nymphs or emergers anywhere in the water column. Second, even during times with no hatch, especially during low water periods of August and the fall, fish are looking to the surface for terrestrials. Third, lead and beads built into flies tend to make them act less natural than the real thing. A bead causes the fly to float nose down and both turns of lead and/or a bead, reduce the fly’s natural drift when in the microcurrents around obstructions near the bottom. Forth, pre-weighted flies offer fewer opportunities to adjust where in the water column they are floating. Fifth, gold or silver beads will scare spooky fish.

It is true that there are times when you need to be very close to the bottom – or even on the bottom. Even then, I find using split shot to get un-weighted flies to the bottom works better than using weighted flies. (Besides, I don’t need to worry about what flies have weight and which don’t. Other than a few beaded “attractor” flies, all of my flies are unweighted.) They simply move more realistically, and I can add split shot to adjust the depth of the drift. I will use a gold or silver bead on occasion in a 2-fly rig simply as an attractor and get my other fly down. (See diagrams.) And, I will use barbell eyes on clouser like patterns to get the hook to ride up. If getting to the bottom is important, then you need to put your split shot close to your flies. Those of you who fish with me will recall that my split shot is very close to my flies.

I don’t believe the typical rigging with split shot 18” away from the fly works too well. This introduces too much slack and delays the detection of a strike. I want a straight line from the flies to my indicator. This is why I use a downstream presentation and minimal weight. My flies get to the bottom fast and the indicator is directly above it – all in a straight line to my indicator. At the same time, I can use less weight because the indicator is not dragging the flies towards the surface as it does during the upstream presentation. As a result, my bottom fly is exactly the depth of water below the indicator. Much less slack in the system.

I also will tie my tippet to the leader with a blood or surgeons knot and put my little fly on one of the tag ends. Then tie another tippet on below, where I tie on a heavier or larger fly on the tag end of another knot. The last piece of tippet holds my lead. This system keeps the weight on the very bottom and is especially effective when you are snagging the bottom. This way you lose the weight, not the fly.

Conclusions: How we use weight, and how we present a nymph rig will often be the difference between success and failure. There are lots of things to consider when rigging for nymph fishing. Using the same set up for every situation is less than optimal. I have outlined only the basic concepts. The diameter of the tippets, the placement of weight, and much more are all factors in success.

Common Fly Myth Comment

While there are many times a specific fly of a certain size, color, and design is the “best” fly, this isn’t always true. In Naples, Florida, most people believe a back and purple fly is the best for redfish, tarpon, and snook. I have my doubts. The fly catches lots of fish because it is a local favorite and is fished more than any other color. If you fish a fly 90% of the time, you’ll catch more fish on it than on any other fly! Pretty simple math.

When I worked in a fly shop, I would have an angler walk in and say, “ I need a size 12 Royal Wulff – it’s the only fly that is working in the narrows of the Salt River.”  An hour later, an angler would show up and say, “I need a size 10 orange stimulator – it’s the only fly working in the narrows of the Salt River.”  You get the idea!

In saltwater and in non-hatch situations in trout waters, it is often true that fish will eat anything that looks alive. The same is true for bass and other species. I guide over 200 people a year and fish with dozens more in salt water, and I have often witnessed three different people catch fish on three different flies in the same situation.

Even when a very specific food is being consumed, the success of the angler is often much more dependent on the presentation than the fly itself. When the PMD is hatching on the Hams Fork in Wyoming, I’ve seen at least ten or twelve different patterns work. They may all be PMD patterns, but some are nymphs, some are emergers, some are stillborns, etc.. Most of the time, people fail to catch fish because their presentation is lacking – or they aren’t fishing water where there are fish. That is a much more common scenario than having the wrong fly.

As an example, I use pretty much the same dozen or so flies on the Hams and the same half dozen or so flies in the flats when saltwater fishing. There are not too many times when I feel the need to expand my fly selection. On the Smiths Fork, I have a client that uses an Orange Stimulator, size 10, every time he fishes it he catches lots of fish. My go-to fly is the Tarantula – 80% of the time.

Here is a selection of flies that will catch fish in 90% of Trout Rivers:

1. Pheasant Tail Nymph (8-24)
2. Parachute Adams (10-26)
3. Zebra Midge (18-26)
4. Gold Ribbed Hare’s Ear (18-24)
5. Elk Hair Caddis – Dark (12-24)
6. Elk Hair Caddis – Light (12-24)
7. Black Ant (14-24)
8. Black Beatle (14-24)
9. Orange Stimulator (8-18)
10. Some kind of big, ugly rubber legged dry (4-10)
11. White Woolly Bugger (6-10)
12. Black Woolly Bugger (6-10)
13. Griffith’s Gnat (16-24)

There are very few situations where one of those flies won’t work. Very specific hatches are the exception.

SALTWATER

1. Clouser Minnow – chartreuse over white (2/0 to 8)
2. Clouser Minnow – olive over white (2/0 to 8)
3. Clouser Minnow – brown over light tan (2/0 to 4)
4. Some type of impressionistic crab pattern with lots of movement light tan and olive/brown (2-8)
5. Deceiver – olive over white (2/0 to 6)
6. Seducer – white, brown, tan (2/0 to 6)

If one of these doesn’t work, you might be in for a long day. Again, my opinion only and I’m sure I’ve left off some of your “go to”, “must have” flies. One of the things that makes fly fishing so much fun is the arguments we have about flies. And what fun would it be if we carried only 20 different flies?? I for one, have literally hundreds of fly patterns, but it seems I always pull out pretty much the same ones. Still, once in awhile, I need the others, and besides, I love looking at my fly boxes!!

Spring is here and we still have an above average snowpack in the Wyoming Range. Given a normal late Spring and Summer weather, we should have a great summer of adequate water.

Before I forget, I have a number of YouTube videos that you may access by going to www.youtube.com/channel/UCSrBeg4fBy_us6Hq7JY3CmA . There are lots of casting videos you may be interested in. Many are specifically designed for the IFFF casting instructor certification program, but you will find them helpful nonetheless. The better you cast, the more fish you catch – usually.

Wader

I hear people all the time who believe you need a $600 pair of Gortex waders. I hope this will clear up some of that perception and give you some ideas about how to pick your next set of waders. Like all of my posts, the conclusions here reflect my opinions and are meant to be “food for thought” – not a definitive wader guide!

MATERIALS

1. Gortex and similar materials: There is a good article in ‘Fly Fisherman Magazine’  (2-5-2014), that you might find interesting. Waders made from these materials vary greatly depending on materials used and construction. All are constructed using layers of other material onto which the Goretex, or similar product, is then laminated. There can be as few as 2 layers to as many as 5 layers. The more layers, the heavier, stiffer, warmer, less breathable, and more puncture resistant they generally are. And the more expensive! How the seams and laminate are constructed determines the dependability and shelf life of the product. Expect to pay about $200 for a quality pair of 2-ply waders with no bells and whistles. (Discussed later on.)  A pair of quality 4 or 5 ply waders with all the bells and whistles can set you back nearly $1000.00. Outlets like Cabella’s, Bass Pro Shops, and LL Bean carry good products, manufactured by the name brands, for more reasonable prices. (You aren’t paying for the Orvis label, however, you may want to check out places like Orvis and Simms for the latest in technology and “extras”.)

If you are fishing mostly in the summer in the U.S., and spend only a week or two on the water, a pair of 2-ply $200.00 waders is more than adequate. If you are fishing in lots of various conditions, like snowstorms and brushy approaches, you might want to consider a higher end wader.

2. Nylon, Polyester: Again, numerous materials with varying degrees of quality and utilitarian properties. Cost can run from $50.00 to $200.00 and you usually get what you pay for. Some of these waders are stiffer, noisier, less well fitting, and less breathable.

NOTE: Breathability is often more determined by conditions and use than by materials or designs. I personally believe the “breathability” hype is overrated. I own a pair of these waders purchased at Bass Pro Shop, and I love them! I spent $89.00!! If you are fishing a few days a year, check them out!

3. Neoprene: By far the warmest wader you can purchase. Neoprene waders come from 2mm to 5 mm thick, and you will, of course, spend more on a 5mm pair than a 2mm pair. Again, Depending on the seam construction, these wades tend to be more puncture resistant, heavier, better fitting, warmer, and more comfortable than other types. If you are fishing in super cold water or super cold air temps, these are a good choice! If not, stick to the other types and simply “layer up” on the rare occasions it is truly cold.

STYLE

1. Chest High: I seldom wear chest high waders because my rivers are fairly shallow and/or very dangerous. I simply don’t wade more than crotch-deep. I do have a chest high pair for colder conditions and for the times I’ll be wading deeper. If you fish in waters like I do, and fish in summer months only, chest high waders are simply unnecessary. If, however, you occasionally will be needing chest high waders and want to purchase just one pair, then buy the chest high variety.
2. Pant High: I spend most of the summer in these waders. They are less bulky, more “bathroom friendly “, less expensive, and are cooler than chest high waders.
3. Mid-Thigh: I don’t recommend this type for any of my fishing, it’s just too easy to get wet!
4. Built-in Boots vs Stocking Feet: Generally speaking, the built-in boot waders have some advantages, but tend to not fit as well. A more expensive pair tends to leak less because you don’t have all of the seams inherent in building the stocking foot. They are more convenient because you don’t need to lace up your boots. They don’t require gravel guards and they are less expensive than waders and boots purchased separately. Another disadvantage of built-in boot waders is generally the inability to modify the soles without changing waders. When I use stocking foot waders, I use different boots with different soles depending on circumstances.. (Felt, rubber, felt or rubber soles with studs, etc)

Bootie waders come in two types. In the most common type, the bootie is constructed of 2 or 3 mm neoprene. Really lightweight waders have a bootie constructed of either a nylon based or Gortex type material. These two bootie types will require different size boots! Keep this in mind when buying more than one pair of waders with different bootie materials. I am personally using my built-in-boot polyester waders more and more, and they cost me less than $100.00! They have a pretty sticky rubber outsole that is more than adequate for the rivers I fish.

1. Bells and Whistles: Men’s vs Women’s: Many manufacturers are now making women’s products which are both better looking for woman and better fitting – which means you get comfort as well as longevity (There aren’t as many extra folds and creases that may cause premature wear.)
2. Built-in Gravel Guards: With bootie waders, if you are wading in mud or gravel, or walking through brush,          gravel guards are a must. They keep unwanted material out of your boots, protect the leg/bootie seams, and keep your shoelaces from hooking. Many low-end waders do not have built-in gravel guards. You can buy separate gravel guards for under $50.00.
3. Front Zipper: This feature will cost you $100.00. Nice! But you’ll have to decide how nice!
4. Hand Warmers: Handwarmer pockets are a fairly standard feature in most high-end waders. If you are fishing in cold weather, they can be nice.
5. Storage Pocket: A nice option, but a vest, shirt pocket, or fanny/backpack can do the same thing.
6. Reinforced knees, Butt, etc: Almost all high-end waders have these features, but again, if you are only fishing a few days a year, they really won’t matter much.

The bottom line is that I have a pair of Simms lightweight non-neoprene bootie Gortex pant waders that have no extras, cost $180.00, and I have used them for over 75 days without a problem. I also have a pair of Redington chest high waders (the same seam and laminate technology as Orvis) that have all the extras except the zipper, cost $400.00, and are great when wading deep or in the snow. My third pair of waders are chest high booted nylon waders with no extras, that are very warm, very comfortable, very convenient to get in and out of in sub-freezing temps and cost me less than $100.00. I’m wearing them more and more!

You’ll need to decide what is best for you. If you are going to buy just one pair, and you fish often, I would get a good chest high wader constructed of 3 or 4 ply Gortex-type material with 3mm neoprene booties and built-in gravel guards. A good pair can run you $300.00 – $500.00 but will serve you quite well in almost all conditions. For lots of fishing in a specific and very narrow range of conditions, other styles /materials may be better. (I’m thinking of getting a pair of built-in boot neoprene waders for winter fishing.) If you fish a few days a year and you don’t do much hiking, I’d get a less expensive booted wader constructed of some type of nylon material. These will run you anywhere from $100 – $200.

Always hang your waders up with an easy escape for air. With stocking foot waders, I turn them inside out. Nothing is more disgusting than fishing next to someone who has constant stink emitting from their waders! Plus, they’ll last longer.  Always dry your boots if possible. The sooner and quicker you dry your waders and boots, the longer they’ll last! We’ll discuss boots next month. Lots of choices and hype out there!  We’ll also explore how waders and boots can be used as safely as possible.

Set The Hook Fast

I hear, and see, this philosophy being practiced on a regular basis. I believe there are at least six distinct hookups needed to cover various situations.

1. Nymph with Indicator: In this situation, an immediate and decisive hook set is usually required. The reason is that your indicator only moves after a fish has taken out the slack between the fly and indicator. This slack is almost always, at least to some extent, inescapable. By the time we see the indicator and react to it, the fish is well on the way to spitting the hook. We need to set the hook as soon as possible!
2. An Upstream Dry Fly Presentation: In this situation, there is often a need to hesitate a bit before raising the rod tip. Big fish especially are in no hurry to close their mouth around a fly. The Kiwi guides tell clients to say, “God Save the Queen”, and then lift. This is something I find very helpful when fishing for big cutthroats and flies lying flush with the film. Take your time!
3. A Downstream Dry Fly Presentation: I do a lot of this type of fishing and find it very difficult for most people to hook fish. They set too fast and pull the fly straight upstream – right out of the fish’s mouth. On a downstream presentation, I tell people to keep their rod up 2 or 3 feet above the water. When they see the fish, they should drop the rod tip to the water, and then slowly lift the rod to the near side at a 90° angle away from the fish. (We are seldom directly above the fish.)

This does two things:

a) It makes the set late enough that the fish has time to close their mouth.

b) it puts the hook to the side instead of straight upstream, encouraging a better chance of hooking the fish. Give the fish time!

4. A Downstream and Across, Just Below the Surface Swinging Wet or Soft Hackle Fly Presentation: I am doing more and more of this type of fishing. It can be quite deadly and is a ton of fun! This is similar to the downstream dry fly setting, with a couple of subtle differences.

I have no extra line below the reel. All of my lines are on the reel. When the fish hits, it is immediately on the reel. The Hams Fork fish hit so violently, that if your hands are in the normal configurations, they will often break you off immediately. The reel, set relatively loose, is very consistent and sooth – much more so than your hands. I let the fish pull the fly with no lift on my part. Like in the downstream set, I keep my rod tip two or 3 feet off the water and drop it on the strike. Let the fish hook themselves! Then I lift the rod and use the friction of the tip-top guide to applying additional hook setting. Let the fish hook itself!

5. “Normal” Streamer Fishing: Here you need a “strip set”. This means your rod tip is down, right on the water. You do not raise your rod on the strike, you simply continue stripping! Then you lift the rod. In this situation, fish are eating the fly as it moves through the water. They hook themselves because your fly is moving under tension. There are two trains of thought as to how one imparts motion to the fly. The first, and most popular, is the rod is held at a 90° angle to the fly line, and the angler manipulates the rod tip to impart action to the fly. I don’t use this method because I believe the bend in the rod, at the time of the bite, causes a poorer hook set.

I like to impart action to the fly with my rod pointing directly at the fly and my various retrieve strips cause the action. By varying speed and lengths of retrieves, in conjunction with a well-designed fly, I can create action and still have a straight line from my hand to the fly – this ensuring a slack-free set. Try both ways and see what you think!

6. Streamer Fishing with “Nibbling” Bites: This is difficult to describe, but I’ll do my best. I have experienced this on many occasions with Lady Fish, Blue Gills, and Trout.

You feel the fish take, you set the hook, and there is no fish! I have found that in this scenario the best thing to do after you feel the “take”,  is to immediately push your rod tip forward, wait for a second, and then strip. You will often have a fish. What I think happens is the fish is wounding the “fish/fly” on the first stroke, and then when you introduce slack, it eats it as it drifts aimlessly in the current. (That’s my story and I’m sticking to it.) In any case, it seems to work on a regular basis. “Wound” your fly!

One final note: As you can see, there are many situations where an immediate hook set is actually a handicap. This is why I don’t worry about slack in my fly line. I am much more concerned with a good drift than excessive slack. I can take 15 feet of slack out by simply rotating my wrist so the rod tip travels up and back. And, I have plenty of time to do that as I want to delay the set anyway! We’ll try and keep this series going through the winter, so if you have any questions or topics that you’d like to see covered, please contact us!

Long Leaders and Dull Colored Lines

I need long leaders and dull colored lines to catch spooky fish in clear water. I hear this one all the time! What makes this statement problematic is the truth of it depends on the technique used and a belief that fish see color the same way we do. For traditional upstream presentations, the statement is generally true – at least as far as the leader portion is concerned. In order to prevent drag on the fly, a longer leader with a long tippet is a good idea. In addition, you don’t want your fly line landing on top of the fish – or even close enough for it to hear.

I have my doubts as to the dull fly line part. (For a number of reasons I’ll discuss in the next paragraph, I use nothing but bright orange lines.) I believe fish spook when a line crashes on top of them or goes over their heads during a false cast, regardless of color.

I do not believe color makes a significant difference for 3 reasons:

1) Fish see color differently than we do.

2) When viewing a fly line from underwater, the color is hard to see.

3) I have caught a ton of fish on an orange line and have never felt that color makes a difference.

I use an orange line because:

1) I can see it in the air, so I can avoid bushes, and can more easily check my loop formation and direction, 2) I can find my rod when I lay it down in bushes or the ground

3) It takes great pictures.

4) and most importantly, I can see the mends on the water. I know exactly where my line is and what it is doing. Dull lines do not afford these advantages, especially in low light or water glare.

As for leader length, the longer the leader the more difficult it is to place a fly exactly where you want to, and more importantly, it is almost impossible to mend the long leader to the fly. Mending your line only does not usually solve the problem of drag. You need to mend all the way to the fly. This is impossible with a long leader.

I now use leaders of 7 to 8 feet and have had excellent results on very spooky fish by fishing them down, or down and across the current. With the use of the reach mend, and various curve and slack line casts, my fly gets to the fish with minimal drag and, just as importantly, the fly is the first thing the fish sees – no line, no leader, no drag! Of course, there are times when the situation requires an upstream presentation with long leaders. But in general, the downstream presentation is, in my view, superior for hooking picky fish in clear water.

With a  downstream presentation, the big issue is the hook set. You need to wait a bit longer before lifting. I usually wait until the fish is under the water to set. The set should be almost nonexistent. Simply tighten up the line keeping a loose grip. With the line downstream, rod tip down, and no slack with light tippets, breaking fish off is easy to do. For that reason, I am using more and more “soft” rods for my fishing. They protect small tippets better, are fun to cast, and fight fish better because the effective lever is shorter as the rod bends lower toward your hand.

In any case, you might want to experiment with shorter leaders and different presentations. My typical trout setup is a 5wt rod, 5wt Ballistic Pro Performance Fly Line, and a 7½ foot 3x Rio leader. I add tippet as needed. I would also recommend a 10ft rod for most medium to large rivers. The extra length really enhances mending and roll casting.

The Ballistic Pro Performance Line is built for roll casting and mending at 30 to 60 ft. It has a small diameter of 13ft. front taper that allows for delicate presentations of small flies but still has the ability to cast big size 4 flies, nymph rigs and small streamers – even with a 5wt line! Next time you are in the market for a fly line, check it out at snakeriveroutfitters.com

Have fun and don’t forget to play a bit as you fish. We learn by experimenting and expanding our horizons!